Santa Teresa doesn’t have one landmark pulling all the attention. Instead, the whole neighborhood is the attraction: cobblestone streets, colonial mansions, artist studios, samba bars and restaurants with views over Guanabara Bay. The best way to experience it is to wander and let one stop lead into the next.
I was born and raised in Rio, and Santa Teresa is still the neighborhood I recommend to anyone who wants to see a different side of the city, away from the beach. Here are the best things to do in Santa Teresa, plus what to see, where to stop for a meal and how to string it all together in one day.
For directions, tram hours and ticket prices, check my guide to Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro.
Things to do in Santa Teresa at a glance
🚋 Ride the historic tram
🏛️ Parque das Ruínas and Museu Chácara do Céu
🍞 My favorite breakfast in the city, great feijoadas and caipirinhas
🎨 Art studios and colonial streets
🥁 Live samba at Largo dos Guimarães
🌈 Walk down the Selarón Steps
1. Ride the Santa Teresa Tram
The open-sided yellow tram has connected Downtown to Santa Teresa since the 19th century, and riding it is an experience in itself. It crosses the Arcos da Lapa, the old aqueduct, giving you an aerial view of Lapa before climbing into the hills.
Expect lines at peak times, and don’t rush it. Hours, stops and fares are in my Santa Teresa guide.
2. Parque das Ruínas (Parque Gloria Maria)
The ruins of a mansion turned into an open-air cultural space, with a rooftop terrace looking over Guanabara Bay and Downtown. It was recently renamed Parque Gloria Maria, but most people, maps included, still call it Parque das Ruínas. Entry is free, and it’s worth timing your visit for the late afternoon light.
On some weekends, the park hosts festivals with food and live music. I keep these events up to date in my month-by-month guides, so check my guide to the best time to visit Rio de Janeiro to find the one for your trip.
3. Museu Chácara do Céu
Right next door, this modernist house holds a small but excellent art collection, with works by Portinari, Matisse and Picasso. The garden has one of the best views of the bay and Sugarloaf Mountain.
4. Visit art studios and galleries
Santa Teresa has one of the highest concentrations of art studios in Rio, many run from the artists’ own homes. There’s no single must-visit address, and part of the fun is stumbling into one while walking.
If you’re in Rio in September, don’t miss Arte de Portas Abertas, when studios and cultural spaces open their doors to the public. More in my guide to Rio de Janeiro in September.
5. Wander the largos and colonial streets
Santa Teresa’s streets are the main attraction: narrow, cobbled and lined with colonial mansions in every state of preservation, from perfectly restored to charmingly crumbling.
My favorite stretch starts at Largo do Curvelo and follows the streets toward Chácara do Céu, then down to the top of the Selarón Steps. In just a few blocks, you’ll pass brightly painted houses, colorful murals, old trees with roots spilling over stone walls and, every now and then, a glimpse of Sugarloaf Mountain between the buildings. I break down this route step by step in my one-day itinerary at the end of this post.
6. Catch live samba at Largo dos Guimarães
Samba dos Guimarães is the neighborhood’s signature roda de samba, held every Saturday night from around 7 p.m., with a different group each week. There’s a cover charge, but the atmosphere and the view make up for it.
For an earlier start, Cadê Teresa Bar, right across the square, has live samba from around 3 p.m. on weekends. For more options across the city, see my guide to where to see live samba in Rio.
7. Eat feijoada and try new caipirinha flavors
Santa Teresa punches well above its size when it comes to food. Bar do Mineiro and Portella Bar serve some of the best feijoada in the city, and Armazém São Joaquim has a caipirinha menu with flavors well beyond lime.
8. Walk down the Selarón Steps
The mosaic-covered staircase is technically in Lapa, but it’s easy to fold into your visit. Walking down from Santa Teresa is the safest and easiest way to see it, since it avoids the walk up from Lapa.
9. Take a guided tour
If you’d rather not worry about routes, safety or timing the tram, a guided tour is a great option. I did an e-bike tour through Tijuca Forest and Santa Teresa and couldn’t recommend it more. Here’s my detailed review of the experience. If biking isn’t your thing, book a Santa Teresa walking tour. I recommend the one below:
How I’d spend a day in Santa Teresa
Take the tram up from Downtown and get off at Largo dos Guimarães. Go early to avoid the longest lines. You’ll find the station, hours and ticket prices in my guide to Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro.
Start with breakfast at Café do Alto, my favorite breakfast spot in the area. On weekends, they serve a buffet focused on food from Brazil’s Northeast, and lines get long, so arrive early. For a more upscale option, Térèze, the restaurant at Santa Teresa Hotel MGallery, serves breakfast to non-guests too.
Then walk along Paschoal Carlos Magno and Almirante Alexandrino streets toward Largo do Curvelo, stopping at any art studio or shop that catches your eye.
For lunch, if you haven’t tried feijoada yet, head to Bar do Mineiro, a traditional bar known for its award-winning feijoada. Aprazível is another great choice, with Brazilian cuisine in a more refined setting.
After lunch, visit Parque das Ruínas for the views over the bay and, if you have time, Chácara do Céu next door. This stretch has some of the neighborhood’s best murals and colorful houses. Finish by walking down Ladeira de Santa Teresa to the top of the Selarón Steps, ideally in daylight, and take an Uber back from Lapa.
On a Saturday, stay in Santa Teresa for the evening instead and catch samba at Largo dos Guimarães from around 7 p.m.
If you’d rather stay in the neighborhood, see my guide to where to stay in Santa Teresa.
What to do in Santa Teresa - FAQ
Is Santa Teresa safe?
Santa Teresa is generally safe during the day, especially around the main squares and sights. Avoid quiet side streets alone at night, and take an Uber or the tram instead of walking up from Downtown or Lapa.
How long should I spend in Santa Teresa?
A morning or afternoon covers the highlights. For samba or dinner too, plan a full day or evening.
What is there to see in Santa Teresa?
The highlights are the historic tram, Parque das Ruínas, Museu Chácara do Céu, the colonial streets around Largo dos Guimarães and the Selarón Steps, just downhill in Lapa.
Written by Karina
Born and raised in Rio de Janeiro, Karina spent over a decade working in the tourism industry, with experience in some of the world's leading travel destinations. She created Going to Rio to bring that same standard of practical, traveler-first guidance to visitors exploring Rio de Janeiro. Learn more about Karina
From the historic tram to samba nights and Instagrammable ruins, here’s what to do in Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro.